Day three was the most pleasant of all. Having 'bagged' the highest
pass and endured the blizzard yesterday anything now would
be a piece of cake. The sun was gorgeous and the snow pristine
- totally untouched. We started by crossing a semi-frozen stream
(with one of us getting a rejuvenating cold foot-bath). From
then on it was up and up on top of the frozen snow. The glare
was even stronger than the day before (I had my chin burnt
from underneath because of the sunshine reflected from the
snow),
but it wasn't cold. Spirits were high and the sky of unbelievable
clarity and depth. When we stopped chatting the silence was
absolute.
Soon
we started crossing the marshy meadow jumping from one
clump of grass to another (second picture from left
at the bottom). Whoever didn't get it right got wet. Our
aim - the Chetur-La pass at 5,100m (16,800 ft) - was clearly
visible
and seemed so close... and yet it took another 4 hours
to reach it. I admired our yak drivers who controlled the
45-strong herd with a variety of whistling signals. Needless
to say that the yaks were ahead of us in no time in spite
of having left the last camp an hour or so after us.
The
pass was reached, prayer flags unfurled, pictures
taken, blessings recited. We started our descent. Though
steep,
it was indeed a piece of cake after yesterday. The only
problem was that is was so very, very, very looong. These
Tibetan valleys are sooo looong! Eventually, after some
12 hours we reached the
camp. It was set
up at the confluence of two small rivers and some skill
was required to cross
the final makeshift bridge made of tree trunks thrown across
the stream. Although still at a decent altitude - 4,450m
(14,700 ft)
there was no snow (!) and we saw the first trees - willows
to my surprise. A real camp fire was a true pleasure. Our
confidence in the success of the venture was growing. After
a freshly cooked dinner (no preserves or tins!) we went
to sleep thinking of the green valleys of tomorrow.
Day
four though brought a rude awakening.
Visit
my Portrait Gallery of the Tibetans